|1997-2004 C5 CAGS-SKIP
|CAGS Skip Shift System
|1-4 Shift Light Disable
|2005-2013 C6 CAGS-SKIP
|1997-2004 C5 LMC5
|FOR ALL 6 Speed 1997-2004 C5 Corvettes
1997-2004 C5 CAGS-SKIP FAQs/TROUBLESHOOTING
A. Of course. The reason we include the additional nut is so that the most important vehicle electrical system connections have not been touched. Putting the CAGS-SKIP ring terminal under the existing nut will not in any way impact the integrity of the vehicle's electrical system. But, since the stud is long enough, the use of another nut will prevent any installation errors from causing the original nut and electrical terminals to work loose. If you don't fully tighten the extra nut, the worst thing that will happen is that your DIC will display an error code and you'll have to retighten it. The CAGS-SKIP is not a critical part of your Corvette's electrical system, and we think it's best to keep it that way.
Q. Is that red stuff in the nut permanent threadlocker?
A. No! It's a viscous coating that resists the loosening of threaded fasteners due to shock and vibration. The nut is easily removed using the same tools you installed it with. The nut can be removed and reinstalled a few times without reducing the coating's effectiveness. This coating is approved for use in various military and aerospace applications.
Q. I lost the nut, plastic caps, splice connector, etc., What else will work?
A. The nut is an 8mm metric nut. You can use any 8mm nut temporarily, but we recommend a zinc plated or stainless steel nut for compatibility and long term reliability. The plastic caps can be replaced with electrical tape. The splice connector can be replaced with many different splice connectors, but for most of them, you'll have to strip both wires. The red plastic ones you see in automotive and hardware stores will work. Make sure you follow the directions for whatever type you use. The splice connector provided with the CAGS-SKIP is an insulation displacement connector, meaning that you don't have to strip the wires before inserting and crimping. It also is filled with a silicone dielectric grease that helps protect the connection from moisture, oxidation and other forms of environmental attack.
Q. How do I crimp the provided connector?
A. The easiest way is using slip-joint type pliers (e.g., Channel Locks). You don't want to crush or deform this connector. You do not need to strip the wires, as this connector pierces the wire insulation when crimped. Insert the two wires into any two of the three holes in the connector. Verify that the wires are fully inserted by looking through the transparent connector body. Position the connector so that the longer dimension of the blue, movable portion is parallel to the jaws. While making sure that the wires remain fully inserted, squeeze the pliers until the blue, movable portion is fully seated in the connector body. You can verify this by looking through the transparent connecotr body.
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